MAPUTO
RUSSEL WASSERFALL
Originally established as a port on the Spice Route by the Portuguese, the capital of Mozambique, Maputo is a bustling African city that is an exciting tourist destination off the beaten track. Perched on the shores of the Indian Ocean, the city wears its rich Portuguese colonial heritage, as cheerfully as the colourful traditional fabrics and languages of its African roots.
Maputo is characterised by its eclectic mix of European colonial architecture and brash modern buildings. Notable structures include the Central Railway Station, designed by Gustave Eiffel, and the stunning Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, which features a unique blend of Gothic and Moorish styles.
A statue of Mozambican leader Samora Machel dominates Independence Square in Maputo with Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral visible in the background.
Image by Megan Gilbert
The city is also home to the works of Pancho Guedes, whose innovative designs incorporate African motifs and modernist elements. It’s a wonderland for architecture enthusiasts, especially if they include a stay at the 5-star Polana Serena Hotel built in 1922 and often referred to as the Grand Dame of African Hotels.
Despite its beauty, Maputo's history is marked by the scars of Mozambique's protracted civil war, from 1977 to 1992. The conflict devastated much of the city’s infrastructure, significantly impacting the city’s inhabitants, many of whom fled to neighbouring countries or the rural hinterland.
Maputo Central Railway Station is a marvel designed by Gustave Eiffel known for his iconic structure in Paris.
Image by Megan Gilbert
The Casa de Ferro (Iron House) is a prefabricated iron building designed by Gustave Eiffel or one of his associates, and constructed in Belgium in 1892. It was brought to Mozambique by the Portuguese colonial government as the residence of the Governor of the district.
Since the end of the war, and despite a period of desperate economic hardship, Maputo has undergone a remarkable transformation. In the past decade, many buildings have been restored and revitalized. There is an enthusiastic local arts scene with music and visual artists strongly influenced by a blend of cultural influences from Africa, Asia, and Europe. Markets have bloomed, lively neighbourhoods have thrived in an irresistible spirit of positivity.
There is much colourful and quirky local architecture to enjoy in Maputo including a house built entirely of recycled glass bottles.
The food here is fantastic. The world already knows Mozambique’s iconic flame-grilled chicken through the Nando’s fast food chain, and Maputo is the home of peri-peri. A spicy sauce made from ripe red chili peppers, garlic, lemon, and other spices, this fiery condiment reflects the region’s love for bold, spicy foods.
All manner of locally grown produce is available in Maputo’s Central Market a must-see destination for visitors.
In addition to the heaps of fresh produce, local colour is provided at the Central Market by vendors selling textiles, bags and basketwork.
Images by Gill Dewar
Culinary tours of the city will guide visitors among the markets and unique flavors of Maputo. There’s the Municipal Market with local fresh produce and the chance to sample street food like badjias (deep fried bean dumplings) or matapa (a cassava leaf, prawn and peanut stew). To finish, there’s pastel de nata, delicious Portuguese custard tarts, adopted and perfected by local bakers.
Delicious deep-fried badjias, a kind of dumpling made with bean flour, are a feature of the Central Market.
Images by Gill Dewar
The pastei de nata is a favourite of all Mozambicans. They can be found in coffee shops ad on street stalls all over the city.
Mercado de Peixe on the waterfront, is where the region’s fishermen bring their daily catch. Many vendors will clean and cook the seafood to order on open fires, happily sharing stories of Maputo’s history and heritage, helping guests understand the complex and sometimes tragic history that has formed one of Africa’s most vibrant capital cities.
This scene on Worker’s Square in downtown Maputo shows the mix of old and new, from colonial icons to 1970 structures, vegetable hawkers and mobile phone kiosks. The city is alive with possibility.
Image by Megan Gilbert
As a port city, Maputo boasts beaches on the warm Indian Ocean coast of Africa.
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